Tip of the Week

Northern Pintail

With so much great waterfowling information available in one place, you’re bound to learn something interesting and new. Make the most of your next outing with these time-saving, skill-honing, and all-around best waterfowling tips.

 
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    This week's Tip

  • Hunting late season waterfowl

    At this time of year, the decoys and waders have been carefully stored away, shotguns gone over and cleaned and are locked back up in the gun cabinet. Hunters are enjoying the afterglow of what was hopefully a successful and enjoyable waterfowl season: reminiscing and reliving the hunts and companionship they have enjoyed over the course of the last few months.

    Despite the lateness of the season there are still ducks and geese around in a few areas of Canada for those lucky waterfowlers who still get up before dawn to pursue the sound of whistling wings over the decoys. This is a time of extremes, when the smaller waters freeze up, equipment breaks down, there are fewer birds around and they are harder to decoy. However, there are also fewer hunters around and one doesn’t have to fight to be the first at the boat launch to get the best blind, There is the possibility of finding a field of geese that have been unmolested for the last couple of days and the farmer would be more than happy to give permission to any hunters who wants to help relieve him of the waterfowl that are eating out the last of his crop. Welcome to late season hunting!

    With many of the smaller waters frozen or in the process of freezing, the key for getting in a good hunt is finding water and a food source. Fast moving streams and rivers are good places to start, often where the current is the strongest there will be open areas which will allow small pools to form just on the outside of these fast waters. Overnight lows can go well below freezing mark and in many cases, closing in the open water that is left. If the ducks and geese are in these spots, their body warmth will help keep the ice from forming. However, when they get up in the early morning and go to the field to feed this will allow the ice to start forming. Finding these areas will require some leg work and a good pair of binoculars. Watch for birds leaving their overnight roosts along these waterways in the morning. Some waterfowl like Canada geese might be very late to rise, well after sunrise in fact. So keep that in mind when scouting.

    If you do find the holes the birds were using, be prepared to break up ice to open the hole up. Waders and neoprene gloves are a must, and in these frigid conditions it’s also a good idea have at least one other hunter with you for safety reasons. One false move in these cold waters could spell trouble if you were to slip.

    After the birds have moved out and you have the decoys set, expect the ducks to return in small groups at any moment. Hunting these late season ducks isn’t like it was earlier in the season where you could get away with a few things. You will need to be completely camouflaged, If there is snow on the ground many hunters use a white bed sheet and pile brush up against it to help hide them away. Also, this late into the season the ducks have bee n hunted for at least a couple months, so calling should be done sparingly, a lonesome hen and feeding chuckle are the two calls you will mostly be using. If you are in the right hole, you shouldn’t even need to call. Just remember to keep those calls inside your jacket until they are needed otherwise they will freeze up and either not work or produce something that is far removed from any ducky sound. Same goes for shotguns, especially automatics: when the temperature falls close to or below freezing shotguns tend to get pretty sticky. Actions are slow to move and the oil that you used earlier in the season is now more of sludge. The solution is to completely clean the shotgun of all old oil and either use the shotgun dry, with no oil or use a very light coating of silicone-based oil.

    For field hunters, look for high protein fields like corn. The added benefit of corn fields is the stalks of these plants is much stronger than those of other crops and the corn cobs could very well be above the snow line; providing an easy lunch for the hearty waterfowl that remain. Hiding a camo’ed layout blind in a white field is tricky and hunters have two options. One is to buy the aerosol cans of spray on snow to cover your layout blind the other is to purchase a snow cover that the maker of your layout blind sells. It is also a good idea, if there is snow on the ground, to dig the blinds in a little bit to help hide the profile of the blind; this will especially help if it is a sunny day.

    Lastly, I will stress again the issue of safety. These late season hunts can be dangerous and the threat of hypothermia is very real if you take a spill in the water. When leaving for such a hunt, be sure to leave a detailed account of where you’re going to be and when you expect to be back. As my father would tell me when I was younger, no duck is worth your life. Good luck and keep warm!

     

  • Decoy spreads - Part One

    decoysDecoy spreads are funny things: they begin simply enough, with a dozen or so mallard decoys purchased when you first get into waterfowling. A dozen decoys, what more could a hunter need? Then, as time goes on, you begin to see that a single dozen doesn’t quite cut the mustard when the guy down from you has a much larger spread or the fall flight of divers has moved in, so you pick up a dozen bluebills. Then in the summer you see an odd assortment of decoys for sale at a garage sale that are a little beat up but are a good price. You tell yourself: "a little paint and elbow grease, those decoys would be as good as new and would be a good summer project." Your buddy calls you one day in the season and says that he has a little creek that is holding a bunch of wood ducks. Soon you’re making the trip to Cabela's to pick up some wood duck decoys. During the off-season you start into carving your own blocks out of cork and wood just to add something special to the spread. Before you know it, a couple seasons have past and you have accumulated a mountain of plastic, foam and cork. But, if you built that shed out back you could get some of those new fancy decoys all the gang has been talking about! And so it goes… Collecting a rig of decoys and having the knowledge to put out an effective spread to lure in even the most wary waterfowl is one of the many pleasures of waterfowling. The question: where do you start?

    Puddle ducks

    Mallards are the most common species in pretty much any puddle duck spread as they are found across the continent. Many other species of puddle duck will intermingle with mallards, and when hunting they will decoy to spreads made entirely of mallards. This makes them a good choice for anyone buying their first decoys or for the hunter who wants to increase the size of their current spread. There is, however, a lot to be said for the hunter who adds a few other duck species to their spread to help add realism and visibility. Adding a few drake pintails, which have some white on the neck and rump,  to your puddle duck spread will add some visibility for those sunny days, while having a few darker coloured decoys such as gadwall or black ducks (if they are common in your area) will help to add contrast on those cloudy days. Sprinkling in a few other species to your spread will also improve its drawing power. If you are hunting bigger water, even adding one or two divers seems to work quite well. Some hunters will also target a specific species depending on where they are hunting; on wooded streams wood ducks would be much more common than mallards or on very shallow wetlands blue-winged teal. As such, a hunter’s spread might comprise of entirely one species.

    Divin g ducks

    Hunting diving ducks the choice is similar to puddle ducks: purchase decoys of the species that you see most often in your area . The most common and commercially available choices for diver spread are bluebills, canvasbacks and redheads. The colour on these decoys, especially the bluebills and canvasbacks, are predominately black and white which add high contrast to your spread. However, ask any veteran hunter which diver species really stand out on the water and the answer will inevitably be goldeneye or bufflehead drakes.

    The white on both the drakes just seems to gleam when sunlight hits it, even when viewed at a great distance. When diver hunters are putting their spreads together, they would be well advised to include a ½ dozen goldeneye decoys to their rig if they are common to the area. In my experience, this season, goldeneye decoys were much more visible than any of the other diver decoys I had out. In addition, if you are going to target goldeneye, they are the one of the species that seem to prefer light right next to their kin.

    Match the Hatch

    decoys on waterAs the old fly fisherman quote goes: “Match the hatch.” This phrase refers to matching the flies you are fishing with to the insects that are hatching in your area, this increases the chance of a fish taking the fly as it’s what they are seeing at that time of year. Or in the case of waterfowling when scouting, match the decoys with what species you are seeing. Looking back on my old hunting logs I notice that particular species are most abundant at certain times through the fall as they migrate south. In the early season, I put out more hen mallards than drakes as the ducks are just coming out of moult and pretty much all brown in colour. As the season progresses I will add some pintails, gadwall, wigeon, bluebill and even the odd couple Canada goose decoys. It all depends on the time of year, where I’m hunting, size of the lake that I am hunting and what species I have seen while scouting. This is another added benefit to keeping a detailed hunting log. You are able to reference it in the years following and be better prepared for different times of year when specific waterfowl migrate.

  • Decoy spreads - Part Two

     Decoy options

    Choosing the species of decoys that you will include in your spread is just one of the many choices you will make. Decoy sizes, material it’s made from as well as a water or weighted keel are other options you have to choose from. Each of these has its positive points as well as its drawbacks.

    Decoys generally come in standard, magnum and super magnum. For years hunters have weighed which is more effective in attracting ducks: more decoys or bigger decoys? Since quite often space is the limiting factor, the hunter has to decide which is better suited for the location they will be hunting. In smaller lakes and potholes, standard sized decoys would work just fine, on larger lakes the bigger decoys will stand out more. One option some have employed is to have a mix of standard and magnum decoys; this way you gain the benefits from both. It really comes down to the hunter’s preference. Lastly, if your area gets a lot of pressure and the birds are getting decoy shy, try doing something different. Instead of putting out a couple dozen standard decoys, try a dozen super magnums.

    Decoy Materials

    Most floating decoys are a mold injected plastic, they are the most commonly available decoy used in waterfowling. Being hollow makes them light weight and easy to carry. However they are susceptible to needing repair if one misdirected pellet hits the decoy when a hunter shoots at low flying bird. The lifelike detail that companies are able to put into these decoys is simply incredible. Paint can be an issue on plastic decoys if you purchase some of the cheaper brands and depending on how rough you are with your decoys the paint may begin to scrape off after a couple seasons of hard use.

    Similar to the plastic decoys are the inflatable decoys. These decoys collapse down to almost nothing and when placed on the water, self inflate. On bigger water with wind and waves they can be tossed around in an unnatural fashion since they are so light. Inflatable decoys are much better suited for smaller lakes and potholes. Like the plastic decoys, they are very susceptible to being punctured from shot or anything else they come in contact with. As well, they can be subject to dry rot during the off season if they are not stored property. They are the best option for the hunter who has to carry his/her decoys in by hand over long distances.

    If you hunt with a group that tends to shoot low fliers or are quite rough on your gear, a good option would be to use solid foam decoys. These decoys can take the odd pellet without sinking, and are very durable. The downside is that these decoys are heavier than the plastic decoys and more expensive. For those that are setting out a permanent spread around a blind, these would be a good option.

    Decoys in boatThe last choice for floating decoys is the traditional ha ndmade wood or cork decoys. These are by far the heaviest decoys and the most expensive if you are going to purchase them. The benefit of using such decoys however is that they are the most realistic decoys as each decoy can be made in a variety of different poses and the styles. As well, wood and cork decoys ride water much more naturally than plastic or foam decoys, especially if you are hunting bigger water. There also something special about hunting over a traditional spread of handmade cork or wooden decoys, especially if the waterfowler made them himself or herself!

     

     

     

  • Jump shooting

    When I started hunting back in the mid-90s I didn’t yet have my driver’s licence or have a spread of decoys or a canoe that I could haul by myself to the boat launch. What I did have was one of my grandfather’s old shotguns, a licence, a pocket full of shells I “borrowed” from my father’s stash and pure youth determination and willingness to do whatever it took to get a duck dinner.

    Just before the season started I would head out to the cabin with my father and look for spots like creeks, potholes and small lakes that might hold some ducks. I would break trail to these areas, cutting down the cattails and breaking the old dead willows and removing anything that might make a sound when I wanted to go jump shooting. Come the season and when the adults were too busy to go out hunting I would sneak along these trails hoping that the spots would be holding a mallard or a couple greenwings.

    The real beauty of jump shooting is that it doesn’t require copious amounts of gear or having to get up early. One can get up at a decent hour and make an enjoyable morning and afternoon of shooting. Some hunters will set up for the morning flight with a traditional decoy spread. Then mid-morning when the flight had slowed, pack up and spend the rest of the morning paddling around the marsh jump shooting and exploring new areas. Or, if while on the hunt they saw that the flight had been into another area, hike into that spot and see if you could get the jump on these birds. This really accomplished two things: first, they are able to add a few more birds to the bag and secondly, scout new locations that they may never have found.

    When jump shooting you will need to go slowly and make every effort to go as quietly as possible. Moving too quickly or making too much noise will spook the ducks and prevent you from getting an opportunity. You will also need to utilize whatever cover is available and not allow yourself to get silhouetted against the sky. This may mean that you will need to take a course other than straight towards the birds.

    Using the sun and wind to your advantage are also big benefits; remember waterfowl like to take off into the wind so use this knowledge to anticipate where and how the birds might flush. Wet ground or a windy day will also help hide whatever noise you will make as you are approaching the birds. This works best if you have a cross wind or head wind. Approaching waterfowl when the sun is low and at your back is a effective way to hide amongst the shadows. While on the water, small creeks are a great place to find wood ducks or other puddle ducks that are using the creek as a loafing areas. When jump shooting from a canoe, only the hunter in the bow of the boat should be shooting. The person in stern should just be concerned with paddling the boat and putting the hunter in the front with the best possible p osition to shoot. When you do jump a flock, resist the temptation to flock shoot. Pick and shoot at one bird it until it goes down.

    Caution must be taken at creek bends that there isn’t another boat coming from the other direction or someone set up on the other side of the bend. Remember; always positively identify your target and what’s behind it. Binoculars are invaluable for both spotting waterfowl at a distance and choosing the best path towards the birds. As well, and more importantly, verifying that what you are seeing is actually live birds and not another hunter’s decoys. There have been many horror stories of a hunter’s decoys being blasted by a careless individual who thought what they were seeing were live birds. At best, that individual is on the hook for replacing a spread of decoys, at worst they could be shooting towards another person. It’s also another good reason to only take birds only when they are on the wing

    Jump shooting is a fantastic way for a new hunter who has very little gear to be able to get out and add a few ducks to their freezer, or for the more experienced hunter who wants to try something a little different. There is nothing quite as thrilling as crawling your way to a pothole and have a pair of mallards explode 20 yards in front of you!

  • Scouting for success

    A few years ago I was hunting in a large freshwater marsh. It was near the end of the season and was getting cold and the birds were on the move. Over the course of the morning I kept seeing pairs and small groups of ducks drop into what I thought was only 300 yards of solid cattails and bulrush. Being the end of the season and not knowing what exactly was back there, I put that spot in the back of my mind. A few months later I came back, only this time I was able to walk across the water. It of course being winter, it was a lot easier to walk through the frozen marsh than to use a boat in the season to try and navigate through eight-foot cattails. It didn’t take me any time at all to find the little pothole the ducks had been dropping into. I had my trusty GPS with me and marked a waypoint between the pothole and the shortest distance to the open water of the marsh. The following summer I took my canoe and just followed my waypoints. The trail opened up into a half-acre pothole with many points and bays which would work well in pretty much any wind.  The hunting seasons that followed saw me visit that spot a number of times and I always had good success.

    Finding those new spots is a thrill especially when they work out and you get a few great hunts in them. The point of my story above is that scouting shouldn’t just be done during the hunting season or just prior to it. Throughout the year you should always be on the lookout for new spots. Winter is a great time to get on the frozen marshes and creeks to do a walk around to find the little hidden spots like the one I found a few years ago.  Having a number of spots ready to go will help you during the hunting season if one spot no longer holds birds, the competition becomes too crowed or the conditions changes.

    In this day and age of technology many hunters rely too heavily on gadgets and motorized vehicles in order to go hunting. The real honey holes are spots that aren’t easily accessible or at the very least off the beaten track. That’s why these spots are good: they get no pressure from hunters and the ducks and geese feel comfortable in those spots. While motorized vehicles and gadgets do have their place, the successful hunter will be the one that is willing to put in that little extra effort by maybe strapping on some hiking boots and hitting the back trails. You would surprised at the spots you can find when walking down old logging trails, over grown roads, and backwaters in marshes most people don’t even know exist.

    One of the strategies I use when scouting is to remember that ducks and geese need the same things we do in order to survive: food, water and shelter. If you find even two of the three, you will more than likely find birds. Using a topographic map or a program such as Google Earth is a great way to get started. They will show you where there is water and farmland and other starting points that you can use while scouting.

    It’s also a good idea to keep in mind the dietary needs of ducks and geese, as these change as the season progresses. In the early season when it’s still warm I find geese especially will feed more heavily in fields with new green growth, as it gets cooler the birds tend to move to protein-rich  fields like barley and millet and late in the season corn is the preferred food.  Making a scouting trip in mid-summer before the crops are harvested will give you a good idea of what kind of crops are in the area. If there are a few fields that look promising it would be a good time to go find the landowner and get permission to hunt early as the fall time is one of the busiest for farmers.

    Water levels rise and fall depending on rain fall and spring run-off and this of course changes every year. Last year where there was a dry creek bed, now may be full of water and offer a choice feeding area for mallards and other ducks. Be sure to visit your favorite water holes and look to see what kind of food is available that ducks take to, such as invertebrates, tubers, seeds and other submergent vegetation.

    The age of computers and the Internet has also opened up new options for hunters looking to get information that simply wasn’t available to them just a few years ago. There are many different waterfowling sites that have hunting forums or interactive migration maps that can give hunters up-to-the-minute data on bird movement. Most hunters aren’t willing to give up exact locations of where their secret hunting spots are, but these reports can give you an indication of any fresh birds that have moved into the area or if certain areas are no longer holding birds.

    Nothing in this article however beats getting out there and putting a few kilometres on the truck to find out first hand where the birds are. The more time you spend scouting, the more successful you will be on subsequent hunting trips. The best scouting times are of course near the beginning and end of the day when waterfowl are on the move from feeding to roosting areas. If you are planning a morning hunt, focus your time more in the mornings, as I have founds that birds might feed in one area in the morning and then go to a different area in the afternoon. Be sure to also check with Waterfowling.com in our Waterfowling in Canada tab http://www.waterfowling.com/wfwlcan, where you’ll find Ducks Unlimited Canada projects we have opened up for waterfowl hunting.

  • Getting your canoe ready for the waterfowl season

    Hiding from the wary eyes of waterfowl while out in the marsh or water can be tricky. For those hunters like myself that are trying to make their dollar stretch a little further these days, buying a brand new boat fully camo’ed is a little out of the budget. However fixing up an old boat with a little elbow grease and time is a fun activity when you can customize it up just how you like. In this article we will walk you through the steps of getting a used aluminum canoe ready for the duck marsh.
    Prep workFinding a used canoe or any boat you would take waterfowling is as simple as browsing the Internet or checking your local classifieds. A used boat is the fraction of the cost of new and during the fall many people are looking to sell their boats they used over the summer for a fairly cheap price. I purchased a 17-foot Grumman this past summer for just $300. It was a little rough but in otherwise in good condition.
    Your first step is to give it a good washing to get any dirt and debris removed from the hull. If there is any old paint still attached, take some sandpaper and remove as much of it as possible. The surface of the canoe will also hold the paint better if you scuff it with sandpaper. When you got the boat down to bare aluminum and the surface has been scuffed, you will need to apply a primer to help keep your paint on the canoe. A marine primer that is made for watercraft is ideal and can be found at your local hardware store or possibly at a boat dealer. Give the canoe at least two coats to make sure the canoe is fully covered and allow it to dry in between those two coats.
    Your next step will be to paint the boat with an external flat paint that won’t shine and spook incoming waterfowl and is similar to the base colour of the the area you are hunting in. Parkers Duck Boat Paint makes great flat paint and has a few different colours which should work for almost anywhere. Again this will require two coats of paint. Hunting out of a canoe, mud, ice and water all tend to accumulate at the bottom of the canoe, making for some slippery and dangerous footing if one is going to be moving about the canoe. Most new aluminum canoes have a gritty bottom to them to aid in traction. The do-it-yourselfer can replicate this by purchasing from the hardwood store some anti-skid additive that looks like small white sand. When mixed with paint it gives the bottom of the canoe that gritty texture that will help you and your buddies from slipping overboard!

    Final stepThe final step is to add some depth to your duck boat by adding a camo pattern. This can be done by using a stencil that matches the type of cover you are hunting in and some a section of flat spray paint. These stencils can be purchased commercially, you can make your own, or just use reeds and brushes you find in your hunting area. When you are using the spray paint start with the darker colours then switch to the lighter colours. This will add depth to the shadows and lighter areas from your stencils and will help blend in when you stick your duck boat into the reeds or brush.

    When you are finished you should have a fantastic looking duck boat that will serve you all season long, with the money you saved you will be able to afford a new decoys of decoys, a case of shells or maybe you can donate it to Ducks Unlimited Canada to make sure that next year and the years to come you will always be able to enjoy of whistling wings in the duck marsh.
    Success!

  • Pre season tune up

    In this age of smokeless powder, shotgun shooters are lucky compared to the corrosive black powdered days that waterfowlers first had to use. These gunners had to be meticulous in keeping their fowling pieces cleaned of all residue so they would be ready to go afield the next day. Today’s modern shotguns with smokeless powders makes gun cleaning simpler, however hunters still need to provide regular maintenance to keep firearms in top working order. A thorough cleaning before each hunting season is a great time to make sure each gun is ready for the coming days afield. Hunters will need a few simple items, and most can be found at your local sporting goods store. A cleaning rod, wire brush attachment, a supply of absorbent patches, gun oil, aerosol firearm degreaser, bore solvent, cotton swabs, and some small brushes (such as old tooth brushes) are the basic tools needed to properly clean most shotguns.  

    Start by removing the barrel from the shotgun and using the rod to push a patch of cloth with solvent from the breech to the end of the muzzle. After running a number of patches through, use the wire brush attachment for the rod and run this through a few times. You will find that the residue inside the barrel will begin fall out the muzzle end of the barrel. Switch back to a solvent laden cloth patch and run this through the barrel. When the cloth patch comes out of the muzzle end with little or no black residue the barrel is clean. If your shotgun uses screw-in chokes, it’s also important to take it out and clean the choke itself, as well as the threading inside the barrel of the shotgun. Use solvent as well as a wire brush to loosen the buildup, and then use silicone oil to keep the threads on the choke to prevent it from rusting solid.

    When firearms fail, quite often this has to do with fouling in the action from a buildup of powder residue, dust, lubricant and foreign objects. For many Canadians our late season can mean hunting in cold weather where this buildup can impede the cycling of shells from the magazine to the chamber, this will turn your semi-auto into a single shot or freeze your firing pin preventing it from firing at all. Also when dust and other foreign objects are left in the action, they can cause abrasive wear which could damage the internal workings of the firearm and could require a trip to the gunsmith for repairs if left unchecked.

    While the barrel of the gun is still removed, you will need to clean the action if you own a pump or semi-automatic a shotgun. Spray a liberal dose of spray from the aerosol firearm degreaser inside the chamber all the way back to the end of the action. Tip the shotgun forward to allow the liquid from the spray to run out onto some absorbent cloths. After the degreaser liquid has evaporated, apply a light coating of oil to all of the moving parts.

    A pump or semi-a uto wi ll need the trigger mechanism cle aned now and then. First refer to your owner’s manual for details on the removal and replacement of this part. Most trigger mechanisms can be easily removed by gently tapping out the pins holding it inside the shotgun with a small screw driver and hammer. The trigger mechanism can also be dosed with a liberal spray from the can of degreaser. Then use your brush to remove any buildup you can see. Another great tip is to use old dental tools to get into the corners to scrape the gunk away. Apply a light coat of oil to all moving parts and replace. Use cotton swabs to apply oil in those tucked away areas that your oil doesn’t reach normally.

    After a day of hunting and before locking the firearm away, give it a quick once over to check for dirt and grime. If the day’s hunt held some rain, snow or high humidity, it would be a good idea to run a cloth rag over the gun to remove the moisture from all metal parts. Then apply a light coating of oil to help the gun from developing rust. Daily maintenance like this will go a long way to keeping your favorite shotgun ready for the next hunt.

  • Movement is key

    Watch any group of birds and one thing you'll notice is that there is always movement: birds stretching their wings, heads moving up and down as they feed, splashing in the water as they preen. Successful hunters will use every trick in the book in order to make their decoys as life like as possible to mimic these actions. This will increase your success and bring the birds in closer for a more ethical clean kill.  

    Water hunting

    Jerk String

    One of the first ways waterfowlers added movement, was to set up a jerk string. When the winds were calm and waterfowlers were hunting over water their decoys remained lifeless; this made it hard to attract passing flocks into range. The solution was the jerk string. Simply use a floating decoy and run a line from the decoy through an eye hole on a heavy weight and back to group of hunters. When a hunter jerks the line, the decoy will bob on the surface of the water, adding ripples to the spread. Adding two or three of these types of decoys to your spread will be highly effective on calm bluebird days, it's also a great way to get young kids involved in the hunt.

    Shaker decoys

    These floating decoys have a hockey puck-sized device in them that, when turned on the quiver, add ripples to the decoy spread. There are a number of these decoys on the market with various price ranges.

    Kicking the water

    This trick is most common in the southern states while hunting flooded timber but can be used anywhere you hunt over water. It’s as simple as it sounds. When wearing waders start kicking the water near your decoys to add movement to your spread. Kicking also stirs up the bottom, simulating birds that have been feeding in the area. However be careful not to be kicking the water when the birds are close, otherwise they may key in on the movement, see you and flare.

    Field Hunting

    Flagging

    Flagging for geese is an extremely effective way to attract the attention of passing flocks to your decoy spread. The flag simulates the flapping motion of geese that are just coming into land and are most effective when used from a layout blind. Some hunters use a large flag attached to a long pole to attract the attention of flocks that are mere specks in the distance, then switch to smaller flags as those flocks get closer.

    Windsocks

    Windsock decoys are cheap and effective. When the wind blows these decoys bounce and move like a feeding flock of geese. Most hunters use these decoys when hunting snow geese as you normally need an enormous spread to decoy snows and blues in. However when hunting mallards or Canadas adding a few of these species of windsocks into your spread can really help you seal the deal on those tough hunting days.

    Flapping win g decoys

    T hese decoys simulate a goose that has landed and is stretching its wings. There are a couple of different types of decoys on the market: some are motor driven and some are rigged with a pulley system much like the jerk string mentioned above.

    Silhouettes

    The benefit of silhouette decoys to the hunter is that they are easy to carry, light and don't take up much room when they are stored. The other benefit is that when they are set up in the field at different angles, the decoys will appear and disappear as the birds move towards the spread. This will give the illusion of a live group of birds on the ground.

    Spinning wing decoy

    Spinning wing decoys are extremely effective on ducks, especially mallards. These decoys are normally set on a stake above the spread, with the wings of the decoy turn ether by a small motor located in the decoy or are wind driven. The white and black on the wings flash as the wings spin which simulate ducks that are landing. Since many hunters use this type of decoy, as the season progresses ducks may become shy of this type of decoy. Due to the effectiveness of these decoys, some areas have banned them or restricted their use during the season; be sure to check with the local regulations in your area.

  • Big water hunting for divers

    When hunters think of waterfowl hunting, they mainly think of field hunting and hunting small potholes for puddle ducks. Some of the more hardy waterfowlers also pursue diving ducks. Hunting these rockets from the north is normally no simple set up; it requires time, gear and commitment. However, if the hunter puts in the time, the results can be phenomenal! Redhead, goldeneye, bluebill, canvasbacks, bufflehead, ringneck and others quite often frequent larger bodies of water and will stick around even when other ducks have long since flown south. Giving hunters who haven't yet hung up their waders for the year an opportunity to pursue these late season birds.  

    Hunting for divers requires scouting and might require leaving the truck at the boat ramp to get out on the water to explore the backwater bays and inlets that are favorite haunts for divers. These hidden areas offer food like sago pondweed, wild rice and crustaceans as well as shelter. Being on open water, depending on the wind, tides, and weather the birds will move around quite a bit and only through experience will you get to know which areas are going to be productive on which days.

    Unlike hunting small bodies of water for mallards, your two dozen mallard decoys normally aren’t going to cut it. Most dedicated diver hunters will deploy large rigs of decoys upwards of a hundred or more, simply because you need many decoys to be visible on the big water. It’s important that you also use decoys that represent the species you are targeting; as divers are primarily black and white, this offers great contrast on the water to help decoy birds into range. The decoy patterns that diver hunters use is also different than puddle duck hunting. The most common decoy pattern is the "J hook", with the long arm of the "J" positioned downwind of the hunters, this arm acts like a guide for divers to follow into where the hunters await at the curve. In order to deploy a large number of decoys, a great option is to gang rig them together. These gang rigged decoys consist of one main line that is weighted at each end, to which a number of decoys are attached using stainless metal clips. The advantage to deploying your decoys in this way is that it will take less time to set up and decoys lines won't get tangled up.

    Divers don’t normally like to fly over land masses and tend to stick more to the open water; this can be a challenge for hunters to get onto the right spot where the birds are congregated. Hunting points that stick out into the open water is a tactic that most hunters use, while some very dedicated hunters employ the use of layout boats. Hunters lay on their back in these low profile boats which are weighted on one or both ends which keep them in place. They offer an up-close-and-personal shooting opportunity of decoying birds. The benefit of this type of hunt ing is the waterf owlers can hunt right out in the middle of the water where the birds are with absolutely no cover needed; the negative is these layout boats need a tender boat to pick up down birds as well as pull the boats out to the hunting area.

    Hunting divers on big water can be some of the most thrilling waterfowl hunting there is: fast birds, big water, and variety of species can turn any hunter into a dedicated diver hunter!

  • Shooting tips ( Part One: 1 - 5 )

    Too often, the only time hunters pick up their shotguns is opening day. Much like any other sport, practise makes perfect. A hunter could have scouted the honey hole, set up the decoys in the perfect pattern and perfectly camoed the blinds but if they can’t hit the broadside of the barn all that work will be for very little return. Here are a few tips that will help you get more bang for your buck!

    1) Shotgun fit

    Shotguns are build for the average shooter who is 5’9” and 180 pounds; of course not all hunters are built on the same frame. Women, youth and larger and smaller men will need shotguns that fit differently. The cast, drop of comb and length of pull all affect how a shotgun will fit the shooter. Spending time with an experienced gunsmith or shooting instructor should help you find the proper shotgun to fit to your body type.

    2) Practise in the off seasons

    Take the time well before the season to get out to the Trap and Skeet range and practise the shots that give you trouble. Get a buddy to stand right behind you to look over your shoulder as you are shooting to tell you where you’re hitting or missing. Quite often, depending on the conditions of the day, the spotter will be able to pick out the flash of the shot string. Also change it up while practicing, shoot some clays at odd angles, different distances and varying speeds. All will help tune you in for the hunting season.

    3) Patterning your shotgun

    There is as many different shells, shot sizes and chokes as there is shotguns that are available to the hunters on the market today. Each of these when used in different combinations will produce different results. Some choke and shell combination will produce a blown pattern where there are large areas in the middle of the pattern where no pellets hit. Only by taking your gun, chokes and shot shells to the range and spending time seeing what works best will you get the best results from your gun. Another consideration you need to factor in is the distance you plan on shooting birds. Will you be pass shooting large geese? If so you will need a tighter choke with larger shot size. Or will you be decoying small ducks over a small wetland pond? In that case you can have a more open choke with smaller shot sizes. Knowing which combinations work for each scenario will mean you come home with more birds.

    4) Pick a bird
    When a large flocks comes in, new and inexperienced hunters will just point into the flock and pull the trigger hoping to get a double or triple. The problem, despite how it might look, is there is a lot of space between those birds. At best you’ll miss them all the cleanly, at worst you’ll cripple but not kill a couple of those birds. A good tip is to focus on one bird befor e the shot is ca ll ed and stay focused on that bird when it& rsqu o;s time to bring the shotgun up to your shoulder to take your shot. Keep your eyes trained on that bird, and shoot until it goes down cleanly.

    5) Take your time
    A common mistake many hunters make when out in the field is shooting too quickly. Some sportsmen think the birds will be out of range within seconds or they need to beat their buddies to the shot. Take that extra second or two and relax before pulling the trigger. As all athletes know being tensed up will throw your game off and won’t help you make that successful shot.

  • Shooting tips ( Part Two: 6 - 10 )

    6) Keep your head down!
    After a shot is made, we instinctively want to look up to see if we hit the target. Keep your head glued to the stock; if we raise our cheek off the stock as we take the second or third shot more than likely we will be shooting high and miss that bird. While out practising on clays have a buddy watch to see if you are unconsciously lifting your head.

    7) Don’t stop that swing
    Stopping the swing of the gun after the shot is taken is one of the most common mistakes hunters make. Regardless if you use the sustained lead or the swing through method you will need to follow through with that shot. Stopping the swing will mean you will be shooting the tail end of the bird and you will be chasing down a cripple or missing it entirely. As a shooting instructor once said, “If you don’t got that swing, it don’t mean a thing!”

    8) Don’t over gun yourself
    Too often, hunters think they compensate poor shooting skills with larger payload or shells. This will only lead to more misses as your body takes a beating from the recoil the magnum shells are inflicting on your shoulder, and you will begin to develop a flinch. Many think the 3 1/2 shells will give you more range, when they in fact don’t provide any extra range. The ballistics of steel or any of the other non-toxic loads are the same regardless if they are 2 3/4 or the 3 1/2 magnums - all you gain is more pellets. Having the mentality that these magnum shells will allow you shoot further will push hunters to the limits of the effective range of these shells. Studies have shown that the average hunter is only effective out to about 30 yards, after which the effectiveness of our shooting skill drops off considerably. It’s far better to shoot lighter loads and wait until the birds are inside the 30 yard mark before taking the shot. At the end of the day, your shoulder will thank you.

    9) Learn to lead, instinctively
    Wing shooting presents thousands of different target angles and speeds, everything from the twisting flights of teal to the fast flight of canvasbacks. Each requires a different lead time which can make connecting with each target difficult. This type of experience is ether naturally born into a very select gifted few or it has to be learned. Trying to think about how much to lead a bird when it’s time to shoot is too late as that bird will be out of the decoys while you’re still thinking about it. The only recourse is to let your instincts take over to calculate lead time. One way you can practice this is on the clay field. By having your gun at the resting position at you hip, calling for the shot and only taking the shot when you see the target and it’s in range will help hone your natural instincts and allow your su bconscious to take over calculating the lead of the target.

    10) One shot, one kill
    We’ve all seen it before, a flock of birds decoys beautifully and everyone rings off three shots as quickly as they can pull the trigger and not a bird drops. The problem is the hunter is concentrating on pulling the trigger and not staying on target. This is a common mistake with new hunters, it’s far better to start these hunters off with a single shot so they make each shot count and don’t rely those extra shells in the magazine. This will also help later in their hunt career, so they don’t become trigger happy.

  • Layout blinds for the beginner.

    Field hunting has changed a lot in the last 20 years. Field hunters have gone from having to dig pits, use willow blinds or hunt along hedge rows to hunting in portable and sleek layout blinds. The appeal of these blinds are many. They enable the hunter to be mobile and set up exactly where the birds want to be, as well as providing comfort and warmth during frosty mornings or during the cold winds of fall.

    Within many of the mentored waterfowl hunting programs across the country, one problem that we consistently see is the difficulty some hunters have with shooting from these blinds. It takes quite a bit of co-ordination to get used to hunting from layout blinds. To be most successful, it takes practise; this practise shouldn’t start on opening day.

    When looking to purchase a layout blind, pick one with a frame and a gun rest. This helps keep your muzzle free from mud and grass and pointed up away from your feet. When you get the blind home from the store and assembled, practise sitting in the blind without a gun, opening the doors and sitting up. Once your movement becomes comfortable and fluid add in an unloaded gun and bring the gun up to the shoulder and pretend to take that bird.

    A key part of your blind shooting can improve at the Trap and Skeet range. The most common shot presentation when field hunting is incomers or crossing. Focus on these two types of shot presentations when shooting. The key to this practise is to try and make it as realistic as possible. Call for the shot from inside the blind and wait until the bird is in range before rising up to take the shot.

    One other tip that will affect your success is how you dress. The bulky 3-in-1 wading jackets are not the best option for field hunting. These restrict your movement and bunch up which often causes you snag your gun on your jacket, thus leading to improper gun mount. Instead choose garments that are slimmer and close fitting. Be sure to wear whatever it is that you normally wear while hunting and get used to shooting with those extra layers.

    Opening the blind doors, sitting up, bringing the shotgun to the shoulder and getting on that bird and pulling the trigger is a lot to try and keep straight and it might take you a few trips to the range before you truly become proficient. But when that giant Canada goose is soaring into the decoys or a flock of mallards is fluttering just yards out in front of you, you will know the extra time spent was worth it.

  • Tip for wet conditions.

    With the water on the Prairies, the key this year will be to travel light; silhouettes and light layout blinds will be crucial. Be sure to wear chest waders even if you plan on just hunting fields. If hunting private land, check with the landowner to get an update on the field conditions: a lot of fields are inaccessible to even quads and the last thing you want to do is to make a mess of a field with ruts.
     
    With wet conditions, ducks and geese have endless choices about where to water up. They don’t need to fly back to roosting areas to stage overnight or to water up mid-morning. Reports are already coming in about hunters finding birds that are roosting in the middle of flooded fields overnight. Due to the wet spring, some areas may not even have had a chance to seed, so crops that waterfowl tend to frequent may be few and far between.

  • Taxidermy: Tips on how to care for that trophy!

    With a many hunting seasons opening this week, many hunters hope to finally bag for that one duck or goose species that they want to get mounted. When a bird that you possibly want to get mounted is shot retrieve the bird by hand if possible, a retriever may hard mouth the bird or damage the bird on the retrieve. If you choose to mount this bird separate it from the rest of the bag and place in a spot where it won't get damaged. Never ring  the neck your trophy, as this will damage the feather around the neck area and this cannot be repaired. If your bird is still alive hold the bird under the wings and compress the rib cage.  This will kill the bird quickly and humanely. When handling the bird only handle it by the feet or bill and don't try to wash off any blood. You risk pulling out feathers. You're taxidermist will be able to remove any blood from your mount. When you get home freeze your bird as soon as possible, tuck the head underneath the wing and place in a plastic bag.

     

    A good tip that many waterfowl hunters use when on the hunt for that next trophy is to place the bird in an old pair of women's panty hose to help feather of the bird. Never wrap the bird in newspaper, this will dry the bird out and possibly stain the feathers with ink.

     

    Lastly, when looking for a taxidermist, do your research and pick your taxidermist carefully. If possible go to their shop and look at other birds they have mounted and if you're still not sure ask for references.

  • Opening day is here!

    The first cool breezes of autumn stir the soul of waterfowl hunters to early mornings, goose blinds and whistling wings. With many waterfowl seasons across Canada already open or opening soon. It’s time to get ready for that first hunt of the season. 6:00am on opening is not time to find out that your decoys needed to be restrung or that your layout blind is missing parts from a hunt last year. We’ve put together a check list that will help you get set up for that first hunt of the year, Are you ready?!

    Before you go
    Obtain written landowner permission
    Pre-season scouting
    Purchase hunting license
    Purchase or reload ammunition
    Reserve camp site or motel room
    Schedule vacation time
    Practice at skeet and trap
    Check weather conditions


    Clothing
    Camouflage clothing (shirts, hats, pants, gloves)
    Waders
    Boots


    Field Gear and Accessories
    Decoys
    Motion decoys
    Duck and goose calls
    Goose flag
    Layout Blind
    GPS
    Map
    Binoculars
    Camping equipment
    Game carrier
    First Aid kit
    Waterfowl ID guide
    Cooler with ice (to pack birds in)
    Survival kit


    Dog
    Dog food
    Water
    Kennel
    Dog vest
    First aid kit for dog
    E-collar and remote
    Dog whistle


    Guns and Ammunition
    Shotgun
    Non-toxic ammunition
    Choke tubes
    Gun cleaning kit
    Pocket knife
    Game shears
    Knife sharpener


    Licenses, Tags, and Regulations
    Bird stamp
    Hunting license
    Current hunting guide



  • Good as new decoys

    Make those dirty decoys look as good as new. Hang them on a fence, spray with automobile tire cleaner solution and allow to dry overnight. In the morning, the original colors will be brighter and easier for ducks to see.

  • Calling all Ducks

    If the ducks look like they might drift off-line, use single quacks and feed calls to bring them online. But remember, regardless of the duck calling approach you’ve used in the past, if what you are currently doing isn’t working, change! Don’t get stuck in a rut.

  • Dry storage made simple

    A five-gallon plastic bucket with a lid painted camouflage or wrapped with camo duct tape makes a convenient dry storage container for your first aid kit, matches, shells, spare clothes and snacks. The bucket also makes a great seat.

  • Go ahead, get muddy

    When hunting clear water, use your feet to muddy the water around your decoys. Duck activity creates muddy water, and a muddy zone in an area of clear water is easy for ducks to spot.

  • Easy decoy hauler

    Need an easy way to move several dozen decoys from your clubhouse to your field-hunting blind? Try using a garbage can on wheels. A commercial can will hold two to three dozen standard duck decoys.

  • Just add crow

    Placing a few crow decoys to one side of a field spread for geese can increase your hunting success. These “confidence” decoys help lessen the wariness of geese by making the spread appear more lifelike.

  • Don’t forget panty hose

    Your buddies may laugh, but if you bag that special duck and want to have it mounted by the taxidermist, this tip will come in handy. Snip one leg from a pair of panty hose and keep it in your pocket. After you kill that trophy bird, rinse blood from its feathers, then place the duck head-first in the panty hose. This keeps all feathers in place so you get a nicer mount.

  • Grab and go

    A telescoping golf-ball retriever, like those used by golfers, can be modified to pick up decoys and retrieve ducks from thick cover. Remove the ball-retrieving end and replace it with a hook. Your dog won’t have to retrieve birds in nasty cover, and you can keep your hands dry on cold mornings. The telescopic retriever folds to a compact size and can be carried in a decoy bag.

  • Tips and tails

    When ducks are flying toward you, it’s best not to call. Old-timers have a saying: “Call only to tips and tails.” That is, do your calling when you can see one wingtip and the tail, or both wings and the tail. The duck won’t be looking your way then, so it’s safe to blow the call.

  • Pluck and go

    Almost any species of duck or goose will make a fine meal, and proper care and preparation of the birds makes all the difference. Properly plucked, prepared and packaged (vacuum packed or wrapped tightly in plastic) birds will keep up to a year in the freezer.

  • Choke tube containers

    Prescription drug containers with child-proof caps make handy storage containers for choke tubes.

  • If you fall in, don’t panic!

    It can happen in the blink of an eye. If you get wet while hunting, lighting a fire to warm you up will be easy if you carry Vaseline-impregnated cotton balls in your clothing in a waterproof bag along with a lighter or flint match that will work when wet. Tease the strands on one side of the cotton ball into thin threads and light them. This will burn up to two minutes and increases the time you need to collect tinder and kindling.

  • Watch for falling birds

    Think carefully about where the ducks will fall. Only shoot at ducks that will drop where you can retrieve them.

  • History can help

    Keep a hunting log. Certain spots on a lake or marsh draw ducks year after year. If your records tell you ducks throng a particular hole on days with, say, a northwest wind, that's the place to hunt under those conditions.

  • Love those leftovers

    Leftover game meat makes excellent wrap stuffing. Thinly slice cooked breast fillets from any duck or goose. Toss with your favorite Italian dressing and marinate for 30 minutes. Spread a thin layer of mayonnaise on a warm flour tortilla, arrange sliced meat in the centre and top with shredded cheese, lettuce and tomato. Roll it up and enjoy!

  • Don’t crowd ‘em

    Many hunters make the mistake of setting their decoys way too tight. When ducks are sitting tight on the water it’s most often because they are alert to danger and ready to take flight. Relaxed ducks on the water are typically spread out in small groups on the water. Place decoys no closer than 3 feet apart, and at least 12 feet between the groups.

  • Problem pup?

    If that new retriever pup is chewing up everything in camp, try spraying boots, leashes and other chewables with diluted lemon juice. The sour flavor and an appropriate chew treat (Nylabones, braided dog ropes, or pigs’ ears) should end your pup’s bad behavior.

  • Go camo

    You’ve spent good money on a camouflage jacket and waders to keep you concealed. But leaving your face and hands uncovered lets the ducks see your head and hand movement that much easier. When you gear up, always add a head net or camo face paint along with gloves.

  • Layer up

    It seems like the best duck hunting occurs when the weather is at its worst, so dress in layers and be prepared. Remove a layer to walk out to your spot without getting all heated up. Then add a layer when you’re finished setting out your decoys. Bottom line – you won’t be able to hunt long if you’re shivering in your waders. It’s also a good idea to keep spare gloves, an extra skullcap, and some hand warmers in your blind bag.

  • Every year is different

    No matter how good a particular spot was last season, don’t count on it this season. The only way to identify hot spots is to scout, scout, and scout some more.

  • Be patient

    When hunting public lands, remember later is often better. Waterfowl frequently trickle back into public hunting areas after most hunters have left. Hunters who stay in the game and work hard typically enjoy the most consistent success on public lands.

  • Patterning principles

    It may be old advice, but every waterfowler should pattern his or her shotgun before opening day. It’s a good idea to shoot your gun at different ranges with various choke tubes and several different waterfowl loads. If nothing else, patterning your gun can reassure you that it shoots where you point it.

  • Make every shot count

    If you have access to an open area where you can do some shooting, re-creating various hunting shots with a couple of clay-target throwers is great pre-season practice.

  • Tune up your call

    A little pre-season maintenance will help keep your calls in hunt-ready condition. Cleaning can be as simple as running tap water through your call, or if you have a plastic or acrylic call, soaking it in a solution of mild soap and water. Rinse well and let the call dry. To finish, work a piece of dental floss between and under the reeds.

  • Build a better blind

    Use natural materials to create a worn, years-old look rather than something that stands out as new construction. But avoid cutting down whole trees and shrubs and pulling up large areas of grass just to build a small blind.

  • Strength in numbers

    The number of decoys you use is important. The more decoys you have the better off you will be. If your flock is large, use more decoys. This will entice them to land in your shooting line.

  • The real McCoy

    Realistic decoys are important. Your decoys need to look like ducks. Ducks that look lifelike are great lures for those flying overhead. Battery operated or wind driven decoys will also produce better results than those that have no movement.

  • Not so waterproof

    Check your waders for leaks before you head out for your first hunt of the year or expect to be surprised! To locate a leak in your waders, drop a trouble light down the waders and turn off all lights in the room. The light inside the waders will glow through worn or broken fabric, and you can easily mark the spots for patching.

  • Double Up

    Take along an extra pair of socks. Actually, a change of clothes is even better. Duck hunting can be wet business. And cold.

  • Safety first

    Let someone know where you are going to be hunting and when you expect to return. If you don’t, no one will know where to find you if you run into trouble.